im burnt, again. it was worth it though, some nice conditions so i scored some fun ones today. i always prefer surfing by myself, its a good feeling. being in the ocean and feeling at one with it is pretty amazing, also the feeling of knowing that you are in situations that other humans would be petrified of is also pretty incredible. Not that today was petrifing, Its shame dad needed his camera or i would have got some shots.
of late ive been having these dilemmas that i cannot put my finger on, i try and escape them but they seem to just cling to my thoughts. i need a holiday within a holiday.
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